Monday, August 3, 2020

Alaska 2020...........red gold
















adjective. Migrating up rivers from the sea to breed in fresh water. Used of fish. Origin of anadromous. From Greek anadromos running up ana- ana- dromos a running.


July 23-August 1

I walked backward away from the river. My rod bent and it took both hands to hold it, tip up. Whenever the fish slowed its movement, I tried to reel. All the action was beneath the mud colored water. The fish hadn't shown itself, but there was no doubt it was a salmon. Finally, it rolled to the surface showing its silver back and sides while making one last attempt to rid itself of the hook.

Bucky asked, "Is it in the mouth?"

This question is repeatedly asked as a hooked salmon is drawn to shore. To legally keep a fish, it must be hooked from the gill plate forward. More often than not, as hooks are cast into the silty grey water and then retrieved through congregated fish, the hook misses the fish's mouth and attaches to the body or fin. Foul hooked fish must be released back into the river to continue their perilous journey.

Salmon must swim the gauntlet to reach their spawning water. The fish we target leave the ocean west of Anchorage. They travel up the glacial water of the Big Susitna River, with headwaters in the Alaska Range and mouth at Cook Inlet. After traveling 100 plus miles up this silty waterway, they veer northeast entering the equally silty Talkeetna River. Once here, they swim about 10 miles farther before encountering the clear water of Larson Creek as it spills into the Talkeetna River. Here the salmon can rest and clean their gills of accumulated silt before making a final push, sometimes with dorsal fins exposed, up the shallow water of Larson Creek. Swimming against the Creek's current they'll finally reach their destination, Larson Lake. It's here that the female (hen) salmon will build her nest (redd) in the gravel using her tail. The male salmon (buck) will then swim over the redd depositing his sperm and fertilizing the eggs. Unlike other salmon that also use the Talkeetna River for spawning, (Chinook, Coho, Pink and Chum) Sockeye seek a lake or a stream adjacent to a lake in which to spawn.

Having avoided capture by commercial fishing nets both at sea and at the mouth of the Big Su, these Sockeye now encounter the final obstacle of the gauntlet, the hooks and lines of sport fishermen like ourselves. I try not to think of the long journey each salmon has endured when I hook and drag one to shore almost within sight of its final destination. Knowing that fishing is not allowed between 11pm and 6am alleviates the sorrow I sometimes feel for these fish. During this space of time they migrate undisturbed by fishermen. Once the salmon are past the mouth of Larson Creek they’re safe! Much like playing red light green light as kids and making it to safety. However, bears don't abide by man made rules and salmon swimming in shallow streams are fair game. 

Not all Sockeye fisheries are the same. Before we settled in Talkeetna, we fished for Sockeye on the Kenai River, south of Anchorage. This is "combat fishing". Fishermen stand shoulder to shoulder and the casting, drift and retrieval of hooks becomes a synchronized event. Good peripheral vision is a must along with glasses to protect one’s eyes! When a fish is hooked, those fishing nearby must make it possible for that fisherman to land his fish. Throw into the mixture rafts and boats with fishermen floating the river and the occasional bear accessing the riverbank for a meal and it's an amazing scene. 

                                                               Bucky retreats as a Brown Bear approaches

  • Most sockeye salmon are anadromous—they hatch in freshwater streams and rivers or lakes and generally rear in freshwater lakes for 1 to 3 years, after which they reach the smolt stage and migrate to the ocean to feed and grow.
  • They typically mature and return to fresh water after 2 to 3 years at sea, but some return earlier or stay at sea longer, between 4 and 5 years.
  • Sockeye salmon that return earlier are almost always males and are called "jacks."
  • They typically spawn in the summer or fall.
  • Females select spawning sites, dig nests (redds) with their tails, and deposit eggs (between 2,000 and 4,500) in the redds.
  • Males swim over the redds and fertilize the eggs.
  • Females cover their eggs with gravel using their tails.
  • The eggs hatch during the winter, and the newly hatched salmon (alevins) remain in the gravel, living off the material stored in their yolk sacs until early spring.
  • They then emerge as fry and spend 1 to 3 years in fresh water before reaching the smolt stage and migrating out to the ocean, usually in the spring.
  • All sockeye salmon die within a few weeks after spawning
Sockeye or Reds get their nickname from the bright color of red that they turn when spawning, and at times their numbers are so great in streams that the water looks red. The flesh of the Red salmon is a dark orange color and is prized for its flavor, color, and consistency. 

                                                                    combat fishing on the Kenai River

Bucky holds a male Sockeye (buck) on the Kenai River. Once a sleek silver missile, it's now evolved into a green and red prehistoric looking monster with long sharp teeth. Soon, it will die. The colors are to attract mates. The once silver head becomes green and red pigments from the fish's flesh invades the skin and the fish is now referred to as "blush". The teeth ward off competitors. Spawning fish do not eat and their flesh becomes soft and less desirable to humans. If this salmon survives its trip up the Kenai River, it will die close to Kenai Lake where it was born.



We rely on our daughter Carlisle and her boat to fish Larson Creek. It's a 40 minute trip in her small jet boat. On a warm sunny day, it's divine. When overcast with rain showers it can be miserable and LONG! The river is always changing. Channels change with water depth or can be blocked with debris. New braids and channels emerge. The first trip up river is always interesting. 

                                                                    Leaving the boat launch in Talkeetna

                                                                                Lisle and I
Like the river, every visit to Larson Creek is different. Sometimes the water's edge is crowded with fishermen, but when least expected, we might be the only ones fishing. If this happens, we're all smiles! When fishing this short shoreline, some etiquette is needed and all goes well when the crowd behaves. If a fish is caught, foul hooked, or tackle broken, it's OK to ask to take a few casts from someone's spot as they step out briefly. However, most people try to hold their spot until they have their three fish. It's super handy if someone in your group gets their 3 fish quickly and becomes a runner. This person can now take fish off the hook, put them on the stringer and provide needed tackle, even a pole so those still fishing can keep their spot on the riverbank. Most people are considerate of others, but the desire to catch fish and get a line wet can transform the meek into the aggressive. 
                                                         On this day, Carlisle finished and is now the runner.
                                                                     The time I got two Sockeye on one hook!!
                                                                sometimes the beach looks like this........


                                                                                     and other times like this


                                                                                  there should be 12 fish
This Sockeye season we've stood on the riverbank at 6am hoping to be the only fishermen. We've also headed up to Larson at 8pm hoping for the same. There's no predicting how the beach will look when rounding the final bend in the river. We've gotten to know many of our fellow fishermen and enjoy their company. We're all there for the same purpose and generally support each other. However, there've been a few times when my normally polite nature was severely challenged! 

                                                               Headed home at 11pm with an Alaskan sunset

The work isn't done after catching the fish. They must be gutted and filleted. We usually do this on a fillet board having a nail driven through it which Bucky puts through the fish's eye to prevent it from sliding. Some people cover the board with astro turf or carpet to hold the fish still while filleting. Salmon skin and scales are extremely slimy. The remaining carcass is thrown into the river to be carried downstream. The decomposition of this carcass and the salmon themselves after death, enriches not only the river, but also the surrounding land, birds, land animals, aquatic life, insects; all flora and fauna benefit from the decaying salmon. 



                                               These ingenious ironing board fillet tables save the back.
We have 7 cases of canned salmon, 84 pint jars. Bucky has smoked meat using different "flavors" of wood shavings, but seems to fall back on alder shavings. We also have frozen fillets. 



As of August 1, we have landed 62 sockeye.

And, “Yes, Bucky, it’s in the mouth"!


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