Friday, July 10, 2020

Alaska 2020........Yellowstone National Park

July 7-9

Yellowstone River.....Gardiner, MT

The highway south from Fort Belknap to Gardiner was long and straight. Storms brewed and an occasional flash of lightening angled toward the wide open range. Traffic wasn't a problem, with a speed limit of 75 mph, aided by unlimited visibility, those who encountered us passed with ease. We wouldn't be flying to Anchorage for a week so a tour of Yellowstone seemed in order.

Gardiner is one of two northern entrances to Yellowstone Park, the other being the northeast entrance near Cody, WY. We decided we could see most of the park by making a loop that would spit us out in West Yellowstone. From there we could go to Ennis, Montana and relive some adventures shared there with our son Levi, his friend Brian and Brian's family. Little did we know how strongly Yellowstone would rekindle memories of our first RV travel with a young family in 1992. It was that summer of travel throughout the US that hooked us on RVing. 

Our arrival in Gardiner and the trip up a windy hillside road to Eagle Creek campground, wasn't successful for camping, but superb for scenery and RV brake check. Our first elk sighting was a young cow busily munching a home owner's lawn. She saw no reason to lift her head for a picture. These elk behave similarly to the moose in our Alaska neighborhood. Their focus is on food. 

I'm in the habit of watching for any possible spot for overnight parking along our route. So, after finding Eagle Creek Campground full, we retraced our steps to a large paved pull-off outside town. It was here, overlooking the Yellowstone River, that we spent the night. The late afternoon sun reflected off the rapids and from the couch I watched as rafts of excited boaters bobbed by. Those safely aboard squealed with delight. However, one poor soul clung to the rear of his boat, his helmeted head barely bobbing above the waves, while crew members tried to drag him in. Bucky and I discussed that despite loving boats and floating rivers, we'd never really wanted this type of adventure. I attributed it to HATING cold water! 

I took the photo at the top of this post as the sun rose the following morning. A family of geese had just made their way through the swift current and were headed up the riverbank into a green grass field. What humans consider recreation, floating river rapids, these geese view as routine.

As is our custom, Bucky boiled water for coffee and the smell from the French press signaled the start of our day. 

In 2011, we visited Assateaque Island National Seashore. Bucky was in the process of paying admission when the ranger suggested spending a few more bucks and buying a lifetime senior pass available to anyone 62 and older. We bought our pass that day and now I pulled the well used card from Bucky's wallet. The masked ranger at the park entrance looked at it, smiled with her eyes, and map in hand we were off. 

We weren't far inside the park and ascending a narrow portion of road bordered by a small creek. I glanced down from my window at the creek below me. To my surprise, two young elk stood on the bank. Bucky was able to slow to a stop ( we're slow on the uphills) just as one lowered her head to drink. Both stood for a time looking up at the vehicle, then slowly continued on their way.



The Travertine terraces of Yellowstone are for me more amazing than some of the geysers and hot springs. The interaction of limestone and hot water creates travertine. These multicolored rock faces are always changing. Mix these with fumaroles (steam vents) where water turns to steam before hitting the surface and it's a spectacular combination to behold.


Hot springs are the most common hydrothermal feature in the park. Each varies in appearance from mud like puddles to deep steaming pools of phenomenal color. We particularly liked West Thumb basin where the steaming hot springs flowed into the cool water of Yellowstone Lake. 




                                                                               flow into Yellowstone Lake

When not looking at land forms that defy description, we looked at animals. The animals of Yellowstone have no reason to fear humans. They have been born, raised and will live out their lives  within the park. It's an opportunity to view animals that are both wild and living life as their ancient ancestors did. It's an odd concept, but after some thought it made some sense.

                                                                                                           bull elk

                                                                                       note the antlers in velvet
And then there were buffalo! They ARE wild. I have always found them to be amazing! The image of enormous herds roaming the open range is hard to fathom. Such a powerful beast!


Our trip through Yellowstone was everything we had hoped for. We recounted our visit in '92 with a lot of, "I remember this" and "wasn't that where....?" 

We recalled the morning Bucky and I got up early and raced for a first come first serve campsite. The kids resisted our attempts to wake them so Bucky drove the RV up the road while they slept. We watched as steam rose from the geysers and hot springs, creating an eerie mist in the early morning light. As we drove through the campground, most sites held folding chairs or cardboard signs indicating they were taken. We were ecstatic when a hilltop site appeared unoccupied. I quickly did what was needed to make this little slice of heaven ours for the remaining day and night. The kids explored while Bucky and I set up the RV. Soon all four came racing back saying in combined voices that they had found a hot spring. Sure enough, there in the low brush ran a hot stream of water. 
The next morning, Bucky prepared a special breakfast of pancakes. While they cooked, I noticed him bending a piece of wire. I think it was a coat hanger. He took the wire hanger and an egg and with kids in tow he headed for the hot spring. Using the circled end of the hanger to cradle the egg, he held it suspended in the steaming water. He then brought it back to the RV. We gathered round as he cracked it and dropped it onto the pancakes. It was in a soft boiled state and we all gasped in utter amazement. 

This trip to Yellowstone was just a few days shy of Bucky's 74 birthday. It wasn't quite like showing the wonders of this park to 4 inquisitive children, but the memories and the new sights made for a marvelous time.


                                                                                                   framed

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