Kenai, dipnetting and Russian church

Back Blogging

Bucky and I have seen some sights since we last visited. Our computer is down and as we wait to have it looked at here in Homer, I'm able to use a computer lab hooked to the shop. We have just reached the southern end of the Kenai Penninsula, after having spent 3 days camped at the Russian River Ferry on the Kenai river and a day on Cook Inlet. The Russian River Ferry parking area is a popular spot from which to access and fish the famous Kenai River at its confluence with the Russian River. As Dave Vickaryous, our trusty Alaskan tour guide, put it, "here you will see all types of craziness." It's called combat style fishing which basically means standing as close as you dare to your fishing neighbor and lobbing out a heavily weighted fly trying to snag the sockeye as they move past in schools swimming upstream. You're only to keep fish which are hooked in the mouth which provides another element of interest. When you're lucky enough to hook a fish, it takes off like a scalded cat downstream, usually dragging your line across your neighbor's and perhaps several people's lines in the neighborhood. While you're drag is screaming and your hanging on so as not to be pulled into the river, from which there is no recovery, the fish can break-off sending your weights and fly rapidly back at your face or the face of someone in the neighborhood. Thank you Dave for telling us to always keep our sunglasses on! Fortunately, we have found Alaskans to be very friendly. Add to this the occassional gunshot as someone either scares off a bear or actually kills it on the river bank. Bucky and I were continually pestered by a black bear while standing in the stream which caused an uneasy feeling. The bear, human relationship on the Kenai River is the opposite of that on the Brooks River. At Brooks, the humans were subservient to the bears, moving aside to make it possible for the bears to feed on salmon. Here, the people defend the stream and their catch from the bears. As the river is lined with fishermen on both sides for miles and miles, the bears points of entry are limited. The Russian Ferry is a cable ferry which operates using the extreme current of the Kenai River for power. Fisherman pay to use it to access the far bank. As the current is very strong, my fishing was limited, but Bucky was able to obtain his limit of 3 fish per day most of the days he fished. We now have a freezer full and plan to smoke them when we return to Palmer and our home away from home with Dave and Amber Vickaryous. The Kenai Penninsula is totally about fishing Cook Inlet and any river reaching it from the interior. There are large commercial fishing operations, dip netting by Alaskan residents, fishing from all sizes of boats and wading to fish from shore. Silver salmon should be here any day as Carlisle says they are hammering them in the Mat-Su drainage where she is located. Although Homer is the Halibut fishing capital of the world, Bucky thinks he'll forego. For all those who know his tolerance for the open ocean, it's a wise choice. Instead we'll camp out on Homer Spit and look at the mountains while trying our luck for flounder and such from shore. On our way back up the penninsula, we'll clam in or near Ninilchik on the minus tide, a tide lower than low. These are razor clams. Hopefully, we'll be able to write again at least from a situation like this.

Brooks bears

Anyone see fish?

Brown Bears of Brooks!

Fire cabin pike

The devil made me do it!

Bay of Islands, Naknek Lake

Rainbow caught in the Bay of Islands on Naknek Lake near Fure's cabin.

Brooks Lodge and Carter

B is for Bear.

On July 16th, Bucky and I began our much anticipated trip into Brooks Camp in Katmai National Park. Katmai sits at the top of the Alaska Pennisula and the Aleutian chain of islands. We had heard many wonderful tales of this area from Carlisle and her good friend Carter while working at Brooks Lodge. Although Carlisle moved on to new ventures, we were excited to become Carter's surrogate parents during our week at Brooks. No parent could ask for a more wonderful son. We took an early morning flight from Anchorage and arrived in King Salmon, a small fishing village on Naknek River, an hour and a half later. Upon arrival in King, we were shuttled to Katmai Air for the flight by float plane to Brooks Lodge. As luck would have it, our pilot was David McRae, a good friend of Carlisle's, who was able to point out for us the connection of Bristol Bay to the Naknek River and to Naknek and Brooks lake. Bristol Bay is perhaps the largest salmon fishery in Alaska and it's all about the spawning salmon. Our first bear sighting came before our floats hit the water as we approached the beach at Brooks Camp. What seemed like a close bear encounter then, would seem trivial in the days to come. As soon as our feet left the float and hit the sand, we were in the capable hands of Carter. If not for him, we would never have seen all that this area has to offer, including tufted tan bear ears just showing over the grass, taking a wade in the Brooks River below the bear viewing platforms with all binnoculars on us instead of the bears and starting a fire to cook salmon on the beach at Margot Creek with water logged wood while a bear eyed our salmon from a distance. Margot Creek provided us with Arctic Char fishing, a fish which with we had had no previous experience, nor had the puple,egg sucking leach been a part of our lives before now. Carter was as adept as Levi at pulling my wearing bones through the current of the Brooks River enabling Bucky and I to catch some awesome Rainbows. Our camping in the Brooks campground was O.K. other than the pools of water in the corners of the tent. So, it was without hesitation that we accepted an extra night offered to us at Fure's Cabin, the only public use cabin within Katmai Park. Roy Fure was a Lithuanian born trapper, homesteader and tough old bird who outlived one wife and went on to share his cabin with his 17 year old native bride. It was impossible to share his home without many thoughts of how it must have been here really not so long ago. Being in the cabin gave us the chance to dry our soggy clothes by the wood stove and eat food out of aluminum pouches. In the early morning, while lying on my back listening to the comforting snore of my two sleeping bears, Bucky and Carter, on either side of me, I counted the knot holes in the spruce ceiling above me and thought about Fure's 17 year old bride and wondered if she had made the right move in marrying Roy. Carter left the next day for work at Brooks, leaving behind the canoe we had brought from Brooks so Bucky and I could try our luck with Pike. We heeded the many warnings that we had been given about Naknek being a tricky lake with high winds appearing rapidly by staying close to shore and fishing some weeds. After landing a decent fish, our hopes were high, but that was to be the only fish of the day. We made a hasty return to Brooks on the evening of the 21st as rough water and wind were predicted for the 22nd. It was weird to hear the motor of "Big Red" the Brooks boat, coming to fetch us, far in the distance long before we could see it, due to the silence of a spot like this. It was our hope that Carter had been able to arrange for another day off to stay and fish, but it wasn't to be. One thing we've learned about Alaska is that you move or don't move as the weather permits. There are so many more things to say. I haven't even begun with the bears. That's for next time. And if the weather permits, the next move is to the Kenai. J.

Carlisle’s in town

Lake Hood, is the largest seaplane airport in the world. Lisle carries care packages, returning to the bush. Notice that it's in a float bag so no chance of losing it in transit.

Our visit with Lisle was all to short, but it was wonderful to see her looking healthy and fit despite her long work days. From what she had to say, she has met some very interesting "bush" people who make every trip out onto the river a new adventure. Now that King Salmon fishing is closed on the rivers that she fishes, her hope is for shorter days and more time to fish herself. Fishing for silvers doesn't seem to hold the same level of urgency that catching a King does. For one thing, a fisherman can catch and keep more than one fish per day. We're hoping to have our own experience fishing for them on the Kenai upon our return from Brooks. Our weather has been as anticipated, clouds, drizzle and an occasional break in the clouds allowing for some sun to shine on the beautiful snow covered peaks. Taking a ride on the 4 wheeler here in the yard up onto the mountainside, Twin Peaks, to look for sheep might be our adventure for today, as well as a trip into Palmer or Wasilla, both nice towns with great stores. We have been introduced to Fred Meyer, a store with everything anyone would need and many things one would not.

Hog line

Hog Line on the Yetna River.

Visit with Carlisle

It was great to have Carlisle arrive by plane in Anchorage from her guiding job at Riversong Lodge in the Mat-Su valley. It has been an interesting fishing season for her with some good stories of jet boats, hook-ups, hog lines, egg sacs and more. Fishing for Kings has its own language and set of rules. Her pockets are bulging with cash sent with her by fellow isolated employees for purchasing liquor and cigarettes. Working in bush Alaska is a bit like prison, anyone catching a flyout to Anchorage, receives a long shopping list with booze and cigarettes at the top. After that, the question is asked of the escapee, "are you coming back"? She'll be with us for an overnight which will be terrific and at this point plans to return for fishing silvers; after that, who knows. Our hope is to touch base again later this summer.

George and Jane

We love ferries!

Valdez

Valdez, a harbor of boats and sealife, surrounded by glaciers high on snow capped mountains.

Ferry

Stellar Sea Lion, fishing boats, sea otters and more kept us alert and camera ready.

Blue.....glacial ice

  Blue is the title of this entry as it described the glacial water that surrounded us as we traveled from Valdez to Whittier by ferry. Our inland passage provided us with first hand knowledge of Valdez Harbor and Prince William Sound. This fishery and travel corridor for Alaskan oil represents the heartbeat of Alaskan industry. Camping beside Peter Pan and other canneries, while looking off shore at fishing and cargo vessels, made for a night of viewing a harbor at work. Remember, it doesn't get dark so activities can go on for as long as one likes. Our first class ferry service, aboard the Aurora, made the 5 hour trip past the site of the Valdez oil spill and along side floating ice from the Columbia Glacier, very enjoyable. Jane became well informed about investment banking, where to sleep while riding a bicycle across Alaska, why not to be left on a ventilator, why to have a living will, the cost of assisted living and why a single attractive man in his late 40's isn't married. It wasn't hard to guess why! After exiting the boat in Whittier and traveling through the longest train tunnel in N. America which involved staggered starts by outgoing vehicles, incoming vehicles and trains, all using the same tunnel with fresh air forced in to keep us all from dying, we followed the Turnagain Arm back to Anchorage. Glaciers, waterfalls and rugged snowcovered peaks continued to surround us keeping us mindful of climate change ????? George and Bucky have found it impossible not to include an add on to their grass roots movement of making Denali the world's tallest mountain; this being an ice crystal movement concerned with the dangers of advancing glacier activity. To learn more, watch for upcoming posts.

King George

George and the big one!!!

Bucky's King

King fillets

fillets for supper

Kings

Fish for dinner

Bucky and George’s Kings

King salmon taken on Gulkana River, AK

King Salmon

July 6th Traveling across Alaska we keep seeing and hearing about the Kings, there in, there not in, it's too cold, the river is too high, the river is too dirty, they're six miles away and there are 33,000 of them. Bucky and George were anxious to catch a fish, while Jane and I were anxious to eat a fish. Following Dave Vickaryous' excellent advice, we stayed at a somewhat primitive campground in Sourdough on the Gulkana River, supposedly a hot river for Kings. Bucky and George outfitted themselves with fishing equipment bought at the Sourdough Roadhouse, run by the campground owners, ne of whom was blind. They headed to the river to try their luck in the pouring rain and heavy wind. I couldn't find the scissors to cut George's huge birds nest, but a knife cut through the steel line quite easily. How does steel line tangle into such a mess? Guess what? Despite their $20 sophisticated equipment, they didn't catch anything! Fortunately, Doug Herron, a King Salmon fishing guide, was camped at Sourdough with his chocolate lab. He was generous with his advice to the boys, resulting in Bucky and George quickly coming to the conclusion that fishing from a boat with someone who actually knew what he was doing might be the best decision. So, the next morning, at 6am, Bucky and George were at Doug's trailer set to go. The rain was gentle at this point waiting to accelerate a few hours later. Along with Doug's friend and his two young daughters, they were off for a half day of King fishing. The results were terrific. Everyone on the boat caught a fish. The law allows one fish per day. The salmon meal we enjoyed that night was the best any of us had ever eaten...caught and in the stomach within 12 hrs.

Denali

Bucky and Jorene feeling small in the presence of such a great mountain. As many as 60 climbers can be on Denali during the 2 month period, barely visable with the naked eye! Bucky and George are launching a "grassroots" movement to designate Denali as the world's tallest peak. Please support them by writing your congressmen.

Bus trip in Denali Nat’l Park

George and Jane relax in front of Frank Sutton's bus#287. We all became one with the bus during our 11 hour bus ride to Wonder Lake located at the end of the Park Road. The lake quite possibly got its name as it seems a "wonder" that people survive the journey. Unbelievably, the trip was broken up with enough rest breaks that 11 hrs. didn't seem unbearable. The spectacular scenery and wildlife kept us on the edge of our seats, cameras and binoculars at the ready. Our fingers became strong putting the bus windows up when passing another bus on the dusty road and then down to allow for air. It was too hot for windows to be up and too dusty to leave them down. A forceful slamming of the window at the top locked it in place. Although the mode of transportation was primitive, it seemed in keeping with the landscape.

Twin Peaks

Denali

Denali in the clouds as she is 75% of the time.

DENALI.....

July 4th

What a way to celebrate our independence! Our weather has been spectacular. We picked up the Phinneys in Anchorage on the first of July and headed directly to Katmai Air. It was here that George, Jane and Bucky jumped into a small float plane to see at eye level a calving galcier. Since AK is about snow, ice and water both fresh and salt, this was an excellent way to introduce the state. All they could say was, "It was awesome". You are undoubtedly wondering why I, Jorene, did not go and the reason was, the plane could take only 3 with Jim the pilot. I know that I will have my chance later. Bucky and I also followed the Matanuska Glacier into Palmer AK during our drive from Tok to Anchorage and had ample opportunity to photograph and watch the changing glacial landscape. The night of July 2nd and July 3rd was spent most comfortably at Riley Creek Campground within Denali Park. We challenged our riding ability by signing up for an 11hr schoolbus ride to Wonder Lake, the furthest destination within the park. Only select authorized private vehicles are allowed to drive the one park road and upon completing our 200 mile trip, it was most apparent why this is. Cliffside driving, grizzlies grazing, caribou racing at us down the center of the road and rabbits intent on committing suicide took a better driver than any one of us, so we were happy to put our lives in the hands of Frank and listen to the many interesting German visitors on the bus. Having some wine packed in our ample lunch also helped pass the day. As there is no darkness at this time of year in AK, we dined until midnight and tried to close enough shades to allow for sleep. What a life!!! Today it's off to Fairbanks and a soak in Chena Hot Springs. George asks, "Do they have fireworks in AK?" As it is never dark they won't be too effective. Must go...