Monday, July 25, 2016

Alf Island


Our captain's voice penetrated the rustling of passengers getting comfortable in their all too uncomfortable airplane seats and performing the mandatory task of fastening seatbelts. A task that provides only a minimal amount of assurance.

"We are expecting a somewhat bumpy flight this morning to Kodiak, so I would ask that you keep your seatbelts fastened for the duration of our trip.  Despite some turbulence, I expect our landing to be "quite" safe."

Quite safe........now what could that possibly mean? Would Bucky and I seated in 22a and 22b be spared while 15a and 15c perish?  I chose to not dwell on the repercussions that might follow this poor choice of words.  The age old, "It was out of my mouth before I knew it."  As happens so often, the expected never materializes in as dramatic a fashion as the unexpected. What followed our safe landing in Kodiak City was a week of unexpected days.










"Maybe take the guns out of the hard case and combine the two dry bags into one."  
"What do we weigh now?"

We found ourselves in Steve Harvey's hanger trying to pare our gear down as finely as the skin off an apple.  What had once seemed essential now lay like dried peels on the cement hanger floor. Gathered together, with backpacks, boots and rain gear on, 630 lbs plus gear, gas and water, 1100 lbs........yes! we can fly in one trip. The expense of this type of flight made two trips, not an option. I, in fact, volunteered to stay in Kodiak City if it came to that.

Steve Harvey, 70 years + or - would pilot us to our bear hunting destination, Alf Island.  We would fly in his 1943 Grumman Widgeon.  The Widgeon has a rich history of war time use and later serving the Alaska bush.  It is now a rarity.  This particular airplane was built in NY then went to Brazil, then to NC, to MI and in 1977 arrived in AK.  Steve Harvey has flown airplanes all his life and it's obvious that this Widgeon is his "baby".






Our landing was more or less as I had expected. Once again validating that the expected is usually not as "bad" as expected.  I was seated in one of the two cabin seats facing the back of the airplane so I was spared Bucky's co-pilot view of sea water washing over the Widgeon windshield.




The blue was regularly washed from the sky in small doses, in much the same way as the waves lapped Alf Island's shale beaches.  Grey clouds rolled in and out, punctuated by rain, hail and wet snow.  What would start as an overcast grey morning, often turned into a sunny afternoon with only a whisper of wind, only to revert back at dusk to grey skies and severe wind gusts, lifting the corners of our tents, requiring rearranging of tarps and additional tent stakes.



The view from camp toward seal island......named by me due to the presence of numerous adult and juvenile furred sunbathers

Our days were spent glassing for bears.  James and Lisle, tucked in the grass and hummocks on one side of the island watching the mainland while Bucky and I did the same on the other side.  A Zodiak sat ready in our cove should a bear be seen.  It was amazing to me, how quickly Alf felt like home.  Images of Robinson Crusoe and the Swiss Family Robinson came to mind.  Bucky and I enjoyed following different well pounded deer trails each time we left camp and headed to our side of the island for glassing, hoping to stumble upon a shed antler.  Instead, we encountered birds, ducks and many resident island eagles.









Island living and limited gear allows for creativity.  Bucky crafted wonderful wooden spatulas and I couldn't wait to place one of the many flat beach rocks on our fire for cooking.  We were lucky to receive fish and later crab from our neighbor, Jim who lives on the mainland.

We arrived on Alf during a period of particularly low and high tides enabling us to walk the island's perimeter, beachcombing.  The treasures we found are too numerous to mention, but included sea glass, crab buoys, interesting shells and rocks of all shapes and sizes, crab shells, a folding chair, bag included and a human skull.  Otters, seals, whales, gulls and oyster catchers kept stealing our attention away from bear glassing to watching otters and seals cavorting in the water before us.












                      Sea Otter mothers with babies on their stomachs floating on by


                                    A visit by friends and fellow bear hunters



to be continued........






Sunday, July 24, 2016

Camp



We've always abbreviated the South in So. Hero, it's always been that way. And, most often, it's not referred to as So. Hero, just simply, camp. Camp has and always will be the epitome of what summer should be,  My parents gave camp a formal name, Camp Rockledge.  I don't remember anyone, other than my mother, use this formal name. The wood structure, built upon a rock outcropping, that was our home from June until the end of August was simply, camp. Camp housed my immediate family, my mother's parents, my father's parents for several weeks each summer and several childhood friends whose parents seemed more than happy to have them away for the summer.  My folks must have planned on having extra mouths to feed and shelter when they built camp. My brother, sister and I had separate rooms each with bunk beds.There seldom was an empty bunk and we knew camp was really full when a sleeping bag was thrown on the living room daybed. Our friend, Jimmy, who lived in New Hampshire would show-up each summer.  He seemed in my young mind to arrive unannounced and leave in the same manner.  He carried a well packed suitcase and my folks would always take his picture when he arrived, standing on the boardwalk leading into camp.  It amazed me how comfortably he fit in with our family when this was the only time during the year. that we saw him.  Like it's said, we didn't skip a beat. Personally, at that age, I found it difficult being away from family. One summer I attended Camp Hochelago for two weeks, a camp for girls located just a few miles down the road from camp. While there, I struggled with the necessary scheduling of a summer day into mandatory activities.  It wasn't in keeping with the camp experience I knew! Why must I swim at 10am when the water was cold with whitecaps? And, why couldn't I swim rather than do arts and crafts when the thermometer hit 90? Taps at 9pm meant in our tent in bed, but what about hide-and -seek until too dark to even find ourselves!  It's hard for me to forget feeling less than excited to be marching through So. Hero with my tent mates on July 4th, singing camp songs of which I knew only a few words and seeing my folks wave from the curb. I could not have been more homesick only 5 miles from home.
I could have easily made the livingroom daybed my night bed.  I was envious of my brother's friend, Mike, who was most often found there. Lying there amist the beach sand and dog hair, it remained into adulthood my favorite place to drift off to sleep on a summer day, my legs covered with the ever present knitted afghan.  I still regret having to throw that afghan away years later when opening camp. Mom had passed away and Dad was forgetful.  I struggled to find the time needed to take care of my home, his home and camp.  Mom always "put camp to bed" with generous amounts of Decon strategically placed. Opening camp one spring, I discovered why this routine was so important. As I removed the daybed afghan from its winter storage, a mother mouse with several nude baby mice greeted me. Unable to squish them, I tossed them, as well as their winter home, into the woods. No longer would my grandmother's knitting warm my feet.

Summer began for our family on the last day of school, usually a half day. My mother arrived at school with our station wagon fully loaded, including the dog. Away we would go.....not to return to suburbia until school resumed after Labor Day. Unlike other families, who used their lake houses for weekends or short stays, we moved in and our family and lifestyle became that of an islander, as So. Hero is one of the Champlain Islands.  No one enjoyed camp more than my mother who embraced the lifestyle of an islander.  She left behind in the suburbs her many responsibilities as a doctor's wife and with her own mother beside her, she became a farm girl again. Tart cherries were picked and pies were made.  Fish were caught and fried. Grandma Hadsell blessed us with homemade bread and donuts that filled the air with an aroma that dragged us from our play and had us begging for warm bread spread with melting butter. These delicacies were part of camp, not city life.

Before my grandparents moved permanently to VT, they would travel from their home in Pennsylvania, arriving with their station wagon loaded. There would be phone calls along the way letting my folks know of their progress. I remember calls from Tupper Lake and Schroon Lake and within a day, they'd arrive. Their station wagon laden with my grandfather's tools which my brother, sister and I would carry over the hill to "his shop". Sometimes they would have a piece of furniture strapped to the top purchased in Amish country....that's how my parents dry sink arrived. My grandfather restored antique furniture and was an expert at refinishing, chair caning and fixing anything in need or repair. His expertise on our pump and water intake from the lake was invaluable. Often his head could be seen poking out of the pump house. He never shied from the large garter snakes also poking their heads out of the cinder blocks, staying cool within. As Grandpa aged, my Dad became the pump repairman using what he had learned from Grandpa. The arrival of my grandparents' Pontiac station wagon announced the official start of summer.


Grandpa was a beachcomber and with a homemade ricksaw constructed of wooden wagon wheels, a base of driftwood planks and long poles used for pulling, he would retrieve loads of lumber deposited by the waves on the beach. He would sort his wood into piles of dimensional lumber to be resawed, interesting driftwood for ornamental work and wood for igniting the burn barrel. It was a sad and humiliating day for grandpa when the chore of lighting the burn barrel was no longer his, when well into his eighties, he set the side woods afire.

Camp sat on what my Dad always referred to as,"the open lake" not to be confused with sissy camps that were purposefully built with landforms for protection.  No, we sat in the open, enduring what nature would unleash. A south wind prevailed, whipping up waves that would rival any ocean surf. We often waited days for the lake to calm, hunkered down inside playing marathon monopoly games and canasta. To this day, I have a hard time wanting to play Monopoly. Maybe too much of a good thing. After a storm, it was a race to the beach to see what nature had left for gifts. We had few neighbors, but for some reason, there was fear that the waves had left something of value that would be lost if we weren't quick to "walk the beach". Like "treasure island" our beach received the floatsum from miles around including that of the many rivers dumping into the lake. Items arrived including full docks, waterskis, boat pieces, and occasionally an intact boat, usually swept away from a neighboring cove.  There would be duck decoys, flip flops and single shoes, any number of baseball caps, flags of all types, ripped by the wind from the stern of one of the many large "cruisers" that traveled to Burlington from Montreal and beyond. But, most sought after and highly prized were fishing lures, mostly flat fish. While we scoured the piles of wood and seaweed for these, Grandpa loaded his rickshaw with his, valuable, free wood. While most of his finished beach wood products were both useful and attractive, some caused my mother dismay and I assume she felt they made us look a little trashy although she never said a word to her father. Some of the things she liked were, our boardwalks, our window boxes and the driftwood lodge, a playhouse we seldom used. I think this was because of its location in the woods. The mosquitoes who claimed this as home made it miserable, even for us kids who routinely endured their buzz, bite and subsequent itching. Driftwood lodge was later moved to the beach and after a coat of green stain, became the green house in which water skis, gas cans, paddles, seat cushions and fishing poles were stored.  We were a family that re-purposed before it became the norm. The green house remained a fixture at camp for more than 50 years despite being tossed to its side more than once by spring breakup.....adding validity to the value of beach wood and grandpa's workmanship.


Normally, Grandpa wore green Dickie work pants and shirt in his shop.  This must have been a particularly hot day as he's in his swim trunks. The target in Driftwood Lodge reminds me of our many archery shoots. We became quite good at taking willow branches from the giant willow growing on the beach and bending these into bows. We had two store bought fiberglass bows that hung in my brother's room, but I don't remember having any real arrows.....we probably lost them.  As you can see in this picture, the woods were thick with grape vine and sumac making a lost arrow hard to track.


It was an exciting day when Grandpa's martin house platform was raised.  He had researched the proper height and built the house to specification.  It was disappointing when no martins chose to live in the provided apartments as we all anticipated that they would help rid our yard of the hordes of mosquitoes that descended at sundown and at times of light wind.  The mosquitoes were so bad that Dad finally invested in an electric fogger so we could comfortably eat outside. With perfect timing, before we sat at the picnic table and if needed, during the meal, he'd hit the on button, dispensing a cloud of toxic bug spray over the table and food. I'm still amazed that a doctor would do this!   
Here I can see Grandpa looking on while my brother and father pry.  The other two I can't identify, but I would guess one was sleeping on the daybed!

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My mother grew up as an only child, spending time with her parents on the water. Both her mother and father were experienced fishermen having once owned a camp on Manitoulin Island, However, my mother readily confessed to not inheriting her parents' love of fishing. Rarely did she join them in the boat.  My dad, also an only child, grew up in Milwaukee, but later enjoyed many of Wisconsin's beautiful lakes. The building of camp appeared to complete a dream held by my parents to provide our family with a retreat unlike all others. Lake shore in So. Hero was difficult to find even when my parents moved to VT in 1947. Sandy beaches such as ours were almost unheard of. Through fortunate circumstances, my folks were able to obtain their piece of paradise. They never took for granted their good fortune and enjoyed camp to the fullest.

As kids, we prided ourselves in having, not the best boats, but perhaps the most boats of any family on the beach. Our first boat was "little steamer", bought shortly before my parents started building camp and thereafter forever linked to it. I remember riding on the very narrow bow seat, using the anchor rope as the reins of my horse.....I had a thing for horses. With Dad driving, we'd head to our newly purchased So. Hero land from our rented camp in Mallets Bay.  As an adult, I now realize what an adventure this was in a small boat, outboard motor, 3 young kids and a dog on board, heading across the "open lake".  I never thought of them as adventurers, but these trips prove me wrong. I was too young to know how passionate they were to get started with their dream.

                               The three of us, me, Janet and Dar with Little Steamer atop the car in Mallet's Bay.   
What must our collie, Karrboy think?
Looks like we took a boat ride to the point or over to Providence Island where there are rock cliffs.

The beach in front of camp before there was a camp.  It looks much the same today.
Our neighbor had three boys, two older than my brother. They spent hours water sking and were very good at it. When they decided to buy a new ski boat, my parents bought their old one. We were in heaven.  Little steamer could get us up on two skis when we were smaller, but now struggled to get my brother and I out of the water.  This new boat opened up a new waterski world. Not only would we be able to slalom ski, we would be able to travel further, faster. Oher boats followed this one, but forever in my mind this was the best.  It had a bow long enough to lie fully stretched out in the sun, something important when warming from a cold water swim. For island kids, too young to drive, a new faster boat equated to a new faster car.

And, it had a steering wheel!
We often took the boat to uninhabited Providence Island. Here a wealthy family had once had a homestead, with a farm, power generating facility, flower gardens, fountains with spouting stone lions and gorgeous peonies. My mother transplanted some of the peonies at camp. Here it looks like Dad picked her a bouquet
                 One of Grandma's many bass. She routinely out-fished us all.  Note Grandpa's driftwood window boxes.


Mom relaxing against the log named "buffalo" that washed ashore and was my faithful horse for years. I outfitted him with reins and bridle, riding him for hours, lost in a dreamworld. I picked  rye grass that Mom and Dad had planted to hold the sand, laying it near his head (indistinguishable) at his feeding time. Grandpa Kuhlmann, Grandma Kuhlmann and Grandma Hadsell enjoying chairs built by Grandpa Hadsell of barn board taken down by him in Isle LaMonte.


                                                                                     My grandparents



                                           A beach picnic.  There's sure to be corn on the cob in that pot!


Most meals occured on the terrace.  Here we're with our friends the Roys who had a camp on the point. My brother Dar and our friend Jimmy are in the foreground.  What might appear to be an Asian child is one of the identical Roy twins. I'm leaning against one of the four elms that would later die of Dutch Elm disease.


The sunfish still resides at camp!  Dad, Dar, me, Janet seated and (of course) Jimmy.  It looks like the waves have dragged our raft into shore, another one of Grandpa's driftwood creations.

As much as camp meant to me growing up, it was equally as important to my brother, Darwin.  I'm pretty sure our sister Janet did not share similar feelings.  Janet didn't enjoy the outdoors to the extent Dar and I did.  Dad always worried "what will become of camp"?  As he aged, his memory failed and he no longer remembered the planning he and Mom had undertaken to ensure camp would remain in family hands. Now, where the 60+ year old wooden camp once stood, stands a practical, efficient new camp. I will forever be thankful that Darwin and his family took on the challenge of keeping camp. I am sure new memories are being created as I write.

Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Denali, a whiter white


I listened while Carlisle hastily threw $2.50 in quarters into the coin slot of her washer.  I quickly did the same.  Perhaps I could beat her and hear water enter my machine before she closed her lid.  Doing laundry at the Laundry Mat (real name) needed some excitement, as neither of us wanted to be here on this sunny day.  It was between the rinse and spin cycles that we decided to drive into town, seeking the impossible, two vacant seats on a flightsee of Denali.
Our view of Denali as we approached Talkeetna


We sat in the sun outside K2 Aviation, hoping to hear our names called.  Those around us spoke of having made reservations months in advance.  They spoke with foreign accents so often heard in Talkeetna.  Folks from around the world want to see Deanli up close, just as we did!  "The mountain" had  been visable now for a number of days with a high pressure system stalled overhead.  Denali is often elusive during the summer months with many visitors never seeing her.  Bucky and I spent one whole summer never seeing the summit.  We were surprised last April, when Denali and her neighbors, Hunter and Foraker were "out" everyday.  At that time, no tourists were around to witness her looking down upon us. Carlisle and I laughed at how ill prepared we were for a glacier landing, if Lady Luck prevailed, Lisle in a sundress and me with no sunglasses.


With surprise, we heard our names called.  We quickly grabbed snow boots from a bin marked small, and headed inside to be weighed.  Then we joined our fellow passengers listening to our pilot explain where the exits,  fire extinguisher, survival gear and most importantly, the barf bags were located.  I wondered if all K2 pilots wore Hawaiian shirts as part of their uniform. Perhaps as a spoof.....sun as hot as the tropics, snow as bright as a white sand beach!  




Woody, Carlisle and James' yellow and white airplane, gave an imagined dirty look as I snapped his picture going past.  He surely didn't understand why he remained tied down on such a glorious day.  I knew if we had been flying him into the Alaska range, we'd have been better attired.  It was then that I gave a brief thought to our laundry. It was surely done and by now had probably been thrown onto a sorting table by an annoyed customer.


The importance of the rivers that influenced the early settlement of Talkeetna is clear from the air. Soon we would be flying into glacial headwaters.  In the heat of summer, the glaciers continue to melt keeping the water grey with glacial silt, resembling a river of cement.  Right now, sight unseen, Sockeye Salmon swim by the thousands to their home spawning grounds.  By fall, cold temperatures will lock up the glaciers and the rivers will once again run clear.


The long strip in the center of this picture is the train track running north to Fairbanks.  The landing strip seen to the right is the village air strip located in downtown Talkeetna.  A small part of the Talkeetna River, looking like a small lake, is seen before it takes a turn under the railroad trestle to join the Susitna and Chulitna Rivers......headed to Cook Inlet and the ocean.


Our path to Denali and into the Alaska Range was by way of the Ruth Glacier, one of the many glaciers exiting the mountains.




Carlisle and I passed my camera back and forth across the aisle, each view seemingly more spectacular than the last.  I must confess that despite our pilot's detailed commentary, by the time we circled a number of times, all glaciers and mountain peaks began to look the same.....equally magnificent!

Denali was first mentioned in 1794 when spotted from Cook Inlet by explorer George Vancouver. Early Russian explorers and traders called the peak Bolshaia Gora, big mountain.  The Athabascan Indians of the region called it Denali, the high one.  In 1896, a prospector named William Dickey, named the mountain McKinley.  Many felt the mountain should have its native name of Denali.  This became reality in 2015 when the name was officially changed to Denali at the federal level.  The first true summit ascent of Denali was made in June 1913 by Hudson Stuck, Walter Harper, Harry Karstens and Robert Tatum.  Stuck recorded this climb in his book, The First Ascent.  About 1000 people attempt to summit Denali each year between May and July, with about half succeeding.  Some consider it a more difficult feat than summitting Mt. Everest.

                                                Denali's summit at 20,310 feet making it the highest peak in North America.






Our turbine Otter's skis slid along the surface of the Ruth Glacier with barely a bump.  I was quickly reminded of my lack of preparedness when I stepped off the plane. Never had snow seemed so bright.  The reason climbers return to Talkeetna from their climbing adventures with racoon eyes became readily apparent.  








It was impossible not to feel small in the midst of nature's greatness.  This was my second glacier landing in the Alaska Range, first on the Eldridge and now on the Ruth.  It was as awe inspiring this time as in the past.  

Some of the most beautiful scenery was during our return to Talkeetna.  Slowly the ice and snow  disappeared and green reappeared, much like winter returning to spring.
  

  This is Backside Lake at the terminus of Backside Glacier.  Bucky and I hope to fly in here for the day before we leave.

It wasn't long before we were back to earth feeling delighted with our luck. Racing for the truck we hurried off to the Laundry Mat.  As predicted, our clothes lay in a wet pile on the white folding table.  A bit of silence accompanied our entrance.  I scanned the faces looking for who we had offended.  Someone here had decided that today was a day to strive for white tee shirts and socks.  I was pleased that we had attempted greater whiteness.  Hopefully our delay didn't darken their day! 


In conclusion, I share the following shots.


                 Snowy white Silver Throne in back of Moose's Tooth with the Ruth Icefall to the right



                                                                     Summit