Tuesday, August 20, 2013

The Feel of Fall

The warm sunny days of summer seem to have disappeared along with the Fireweed's bloom. This vivid purple flower, almost iridescent at times, lines the roadsides of Alaska and invades any open land.  Fireweed blossoms are used in jams, tea, lotions and indirectly in Fireweed honey.  This tall spiky plant begins to bloom from the base of the spike upward.  The last blossoms appear at the plants tip.  The location at which the Fireweed is still blooming is an unofficial gauge, indicating the length of summer remaining.  Right now, the blooms are reduced to fluff or at best, small blooms remain at the very tip of the plant, indicating that summer is indeed over.  It was announced this morning on KTNA, Talkeetna radio, that we are now experiencing 15 hours of daylight with a loss of 6 minutes a day, 42 minutes a week.  A fully black night greets me if I should awaken and look out the window.  It all went by too fast!
 
KTNA also spoke of snow arriving North of Fairbanks, earlier than normal.  School has started and school buses have returned to the highway.  They sport lights on the roof which seems like a good idea.  The bank clock outside Wasilla said 51 degrees.  Lack of sun and a steady drizzle makes it feel darn cold.  I admit to turning the heat on in the RV and staying in bed longer than normal this morning.
 
Yesterday, on our shopping trip to Wasilla, we passed Montana Creek.  A week ago, the roadsides here were crowded with the cars of fishermen who had parked to walk in to fish. The absence of parked cars, now suggests that maybe the Silver Salmon fishing has slowed down.  We haven't been and Carlisle's boat sits idle at the end of the driveway, pulled from the water when she left 3 weeks ago.  We would still like to get some fishing in, but hunting season is here.  Our neighbor, Trapper Tim, and other local hunting guides have left for the mountains, guiding hunters to moose and sheep.  Our own hunt for caribou will begin September 12th and we are getting organized.  One reason for shopping in Wasilla was to look for ammunition.  Bucky was surprised to find bare shelves in the three stores he visited.  Radio advertisements, luring Alaskans to spend their PFD, permanent fund dividend, on a new truck or new snow machine before the snow flies, fill the airwaves, a sure sign of Fall.  Alaska Permanent Fund Corporation  The Permanent Fund was established to ensure that Alaskans would get long-term benefits from oil development.  It is an important source of income, particularly for rural Alaskans.  The Permanent Fund is currently valued at $45,713,000,000 (can that be true!)  In 2012, $646,805 was paid to eligible Alaskans, each receiving $878.  The amount fluctuates from year to year and is the topic of guesses until announced in October and often jokingly referred to by the more common moniker, personal floatation device, as it often is a lifesaver.
 
As our time in Alaska shortens, Bucky continues to improve the cabin.  Our attached shed nears completion, and is already providing shelter and storage.  We visited Home Depot while in Wasilla and came home with two base cabinets and a counter top to match the one in our kitchen.  These will turn the new pantry into a great work area.  Bucky placed plenty of outlets at counter height for small appliances and the microwave.
The entry to the new gear/tool storage.  We're checking out what type and size antler to use as a door pull.  Bucky constructed the door from birch harvested here on our AK land, cherry from our Ripton land and old strap hinges from VT.  It has been satisfying to use the materials brought on our trailer from VT.  Hopefully, the same trailer will bring caribou meat back to VT!
 Looking from existing cabin into our new inside storage/pantry
 
We were planning to use the same hickory base cabinets as are in the cabin kitchen, but we were easily swayed into buying two less expensive unfinished oak cabinets.  Some color was needed, so applying a Cabernet stain is my next assignment.  I love Cabernet and may need some as I hate painting!
 
Carlisle has been away for the past three weeks.  When she is here, she's a blond whirl wind whipping us with her energy and enthusiasm.  Things are mellow in her absence.  She is presently working for Silver Salmon Lodge, keeping their remote bear viewing tent camp secure.  There was some cooking involved for overnight guests which had her a bit anxious until we thought of all the convenience foods the lodge would surely supply her with.  Can't wait to hear the stories and see some bear pictures.  This lodge is located on the coast in Lake Clark National Park, close to where we did our own fly out for bear viewing.  Along with watching bears devour salmon, these lucky guests will sleep beneath the shadow of Mt. Iliamna, one of Alaska's many magnificent volcanoes.  Our communication with Carlisle has been limited to a few fluky text messages and a garbled satellite phone call.

 
As anxious as we are for Carlisle's return, she has greater reason to be both anxious and excited.  A new addition to her life is waiting for her.  No, not a puppy!  But, almost as cute. 
 
 
Carlisle fullfilled her dream of owning her own airplane by partnering with another enthusiastic young pilot and purchasing N53778, a Citabria.  It presently resides at the Talkeetna Airport, but will soon move to a smaller strip.  Owning an airplane takes adventure and exploration to the next level.  It is exciting to see a long sought after dream realized and we hope we can go along for the ride.

 

Friday, August 2, 2013

One fish, two fish, Red fish .......

Looking toward the railroad trestle and the Sustina River from the boat launch on the Talkeetna River

                         Visual opposition to the proposed hydro dam on the Susitna River

Happily we enjoy as much time on the rivers around Talkeetna as we can.  We depend on Carlisle to maneuver us up these ever changing rivers with their many braids and fast moving water. The water level is constantly changing depending upon glacial melt.  With the sun shining day after day, so unlike AK, the water has stayed quite high.  We began the summer with a trip up the Talkeetna to Clear Creek (the name says it all) .  Clear Creek offers some wonderful scenery and good salmon and trout fishing.
 
                                                                             beach party

                                                                           Life is good


                                                            Finding fish is not always easy


We spent some time exploring trapper, Jim Beaver's cabin, now abandoned near the shores of the Talkeetna.  It remains as if Jim, or whomever lived there last, left for town and never returned.  The roofs are now caved in and I have several slow healing wounds from the half climb, half  body drag up the riverbank.  Neosporin is amazing!  Carlisle is fascinated with the place and now rocks a pair of Jim Beaver's tin pants.  I'm sure he would think she does them proud!

We hoped for some trout and one of us, Bill, was successful.  If only we had had just a little more time.  Despite the 19 hours of daylight, the day seems to fly by.  Something about trying to cram too much into 19 hours, particularly when the sun shines.

                                                                 Where are they headed?

Wow! What are they doing?
 
Looking back on this day, we were sorry that we didn't go the few additional miles up to Larson Creek, looking for salmon.  As it turned out, just a few days later, when we did go there, the salmon were there.  It has taken some time for me to understand the cycle of the salmon, in particular the Sockeye, but, in a nutshell, it's nothing short of amazing.  The journey, the return to spawn where born, and ultimately death, is all too crazy!  Sockeye or Reds as they are commonly called are the type of salmon most available to us in Talkeetna. During July and sometimes into August, these fish return from the ocean by way of Cook Inlet. The fish we eventually catch, have avoided harvest at sea by commercial nets and are homeward bound.  From Cook Inlet they travel up the mighty Susitna, some choosing to head up the Talkeetna to Larson Creek.  This tiny creek, not more than 6-8 inches deep in places, takes the salmon to Larson Lake where they will spawn.  This long and laborious journey is predetermined by their genetic makeup.  Each Sockeye will spend some of its juvenile years, 1-3 years in fresh water before migrating to the ocean as smolts.  AK Sockeye travel thousands of miles during their time in the Gulf of Alaska, eventually returning to the same fresh water where they were hatched!  It's a bit confusing knowing that by catching them, we break the cycle and prevent them from reaching their final destination.
 
Lisle and I, standing in Larson Creek where it meets the Talkeetna River, note how silver these fish are.
 
             Stream side medical attention for Pete's nose bleed after being whipped by a willow!

 
Seriously, I can't look at you!
 
Helping one another is key.  Notice the large fish bonker.
 
Each fisherperson is allowed 3 Sockeye.  When one member of our party finishes, we try to help those remaining to finish quickly so we can enjoy some riverside down time.  It is hoped that those who have limited will provide those still fishing with food and drink.  However, this did prove to be problematic for Bucky when he held a hot dog in one hand and a fish on the line in his other.  Tough decision!  No one wants to leave their spot on the river bank.  Having someone to resupply tackle is also great.  Getting these strong fish safely on shore is not always an easy task.  They seem to have an extraordinary will to stay in the water, doing acrobatics which sometimes causes the hook to dislodge before landing. 
 
                                        Picture this size fish in the shallow water of Larson Creek.
 
 No help needed!
 
                                                                             limited
 
 
                                                                             Good Eating!
We have frozen fillets, canned 6 cases and are now smoking salmon, all of which takes a lot of time but will taste good this winter and bring back some great memories.
 
There is a reason that Sockeye are often called Reds.  Both males and females die after spawning, but in the process, their bodies take on first a blush and then a definite red appearance.  Male Sockeye develop a humped back, large hooked jaw and very sharp teeth.  The head of the Sockeye becomes dark green.  Really weird! 


Poor Lady had a run in with a Russian River fly while we were in Wasilla.  She was a pathetic sight when we returned home after having dragged around some line and weight for who knows how long.  It took Anja and three others to hold her while the barb was cut and the hook removed.  She shook her head and seemed fine.